Turtle Skin Fungus: What It Looks Like, How to Treat It, and Stop It from Coming Back

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Not every white patch on your turtle means it’s shedding. Sometimes, it’s something nastier—like a fungal infection creeping across the skin or shell.

The good news? You can treat turtle fungus at home if you catch it early and clean up the tank properly. I’ll walk you through how to tell if it’s really fungus, what products actually work, and how to keep the problem from coming back.

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What Is Turtle Skin Fungus?

Turtle skin fungus is basically what happens when your turtle’s tank turns into a spa for microbes. Warm, dirty, and humid—just how fungus likes it.

It usually shows up as fuzzy white or yellow patches on the skin or shell. Sometimes it looks greenish. Sometimes it’s slimy. Either way, it doesn’t belong there.

This kind of infection mostly hits aquatic turtles, especially if they’re stuck in gross water with no way to fully dry out. The longer it’s left untreated, the worse it gets.

But here’s the thing: if you catch it early and clean things up, it’s fixable. No vet bill panic—just a bit of work and common sense.

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How to Tell If It’s Fungus (Not Shedding or Shell Rot)

Turtle fungus loves to confuse people. One day your turtle’s skin looks patchy, and suddenly you’re wondering—is this normal shedding or something nasty?

Here’s how to tell the difference without spiraling.

ConditionWhat It Looks LikeTextureSmellComes Back After Cleaning?Other Signs
FungusWhite, yellow, or green patches; fuzzy or slimySoft or fuzzyNo strong smellYesSpreads quickly if untreated
SheddingThin, flaky skin or shell layers; dry-lookingPapery, dryNoNoNormal if turtle is healthy and active
Shell RotSoft, discolored spots; pits or dents in the shellMushy, sunkenYes (bad smell)SometimesMay leak fluid; turtle may act sluggish

Fungus looks fuzzy or slimy.

It shows up as white, yellow, or green patches that feel soft or slightly raised. If you wipe it off, it often comes back fast.

Shedding is flat and flaky.

You might see thin, papery bits peeling from the skin or shell. They don’t look wet or fuzzy, and they usually fall off cleanly.

Shell rot? That’s a whole other problem.

Shell rot usually starts at a wound. It looks like pits, soft spots, or even fluid-filled areas. And it often smells bad. Like, really bad.

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What Causes Fungal Infections in Turtles?

Fungal infections don’t just appear out of nowhere. They usually show up because something in your turtle’s setup is off—and fungus is happy to take advantage.

Here are the usual suspects:

Dirty tank water

Turtles poop in the same water they swim in. If that water doesn’t get cleaned or filtered well, it turns into a fungus party.

No way to fully dry out

Turtles need a dry basking area. If they’re always wet, their skin never gets a break. Fungus loves that.

Low-quality or broken filter

A weak filter means leftover food, poop, and waste stay in the tank. That gunk feeds fungus.

Bad lighting and cold temps

Without proper UVB light and warm basking spots, your turtle’s immune system gets weaker—and fungus takes the chance to grow.

Stress and poor diet

A turtle that’s stressed or missing key nutrients can’t fight off infections well. Fungal spores are always around, and a weak turtle is an easy target.

How to Treat Turtle Fungus at Home (Safely)

Treating turtle fungus at home isn’t that complicated—you just need to act early, stay consistent, and avoid doing anything dumb (like scrubbing with scented soap). Here’s what actually works:

Salt Bath (Simple but Old-School)

A salt bath can help kill mild fungus on the skin or shell. It’s not magic, but it does make things uncomfortable for fungal growth.

How to do it:

  • Mix 1 tablespoon of plain, non-iodized salt per gallon of warm water (around 80°F).
  • Let your turtle soak for 15–20 minutes.
  • Dry them off completely before placing them back in a clean, dry area.
  • Repeat daily for about a week.

Note: Don’t use this if your turtle has open wounds. Salt and cuts don’t mix.

Chlorhexidine or Betadine (Better for Deeper Cleaning)

These antiseptics help clean off fungal patches without being too harsh if used right.

How to use:

  • Gently clean the affected area with diluted chlorhexidine (1 part solution to 10 parts water) or betadine.
  • Let it sit for a minute, then rinse with clean water.
  • Dry the turtle off and let it bask in a warm, dry area for at least an hour.
  • Do this once daily for 7–10 days.

Don’t go overboard. Too much can irritate the skin.

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Silver Sulfadiazine Cream (Vet Favorite)

This is a go-to cream for many reptile vets. It’s safe and works fast.

How to apply:

  • Clean the area first with a damp cloth or mild antiseptic.
  • Dab a tiny bit of silver sulfadiazine on the fungal spot.
  • Leave your turtle dry-docked (no water) for 1–2 hours to let the cream work.
  • Reapply daily for up to 10 days.

Ask your vet before using if your turtle has other health issues.

Reptile-Safe Antifungal Sprays

Some commercial sprays made for reptiles can help too. Just make sure they’re made for skin infections and not just tank cleaning.

Look for:

  • Vetericyn Reptile Spray
  • Repti wound spray or similar products with antifungal ingredients

Spray, let it sit, dry-dock the turtle, and repeat once a day.

Important: No matter which treatment you choose, always keep the turtle dry for a while afterward. Fungus hates dry skin. Your turtle needs that time to heal.

Cleaning the Tank to Stop It from Coming Back

Treating the turtle is only half the battle. If the tank stays dirty, the fungus will come back like it never left. So yeah, time to clean house.

Remove the turtle first

Place your turtle in a temporary setup with clean water and a basking spot. This keeps it safe while you deep-clean the main tank.

Take everything out

Remove the filter, heater, decorations, basking dock—everything. Don’t leave any slimy rocks or gunky corners behind.

Scrub with something safe

Mix a cleaning solution using 1 part white vinegar to 10 parts water, or use chlorhexidine or F10 disinfectant.
Skip the bleach unless you rinse 500 times and hate your nose.

Use a sponge or scrub brush to clean the tank walls, bottom, and accessories. Rinse everything very well after scrubbing.

Disinfect the tank

Spray or wipe the whole tank with your chosen disinfectant. Let it sit for about 10–15 minutes to kill lingering spores.

Rinse like your turtle’s life depends on it

Because it kind of does. Any leftover chemicals can burn their skin or eyes. Rinse until you don’t smell anything.

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Let everything dry

Dry all tank parts and decorations completely before setting things back up. Fungus hates dryness—use that to your advantage.

Set up the tank again

Refill the tank with clean, conditioned water. Reinstall the filter, heater, and basking setup. Make sure everything’s running right before putting the turtle back.

Do this deep cleaning once a month. Spot-clean and do partial water changes weekly. Fungus won’t stand a chance if you stay on top of it.

How to Prevent Fungus in the Future

Keeping turtle fungus away isn’t about fancy treatments. It’s about not letting your turtle live in swampy filth and making sure their setup works like it should. Here’s what to stay on top of:

Give your turtle a proper basking area

Turtles need to fully dry off every day. No half-wet platforms or slippery rocks. A good basking spot with a heat lamp is non-negotiable.

Use UVB lighting

Without UVB, turtles can’t stay healthy. Their immune system weakens, and boom—fungus moves in. Use a 5.0 or 10.0 UVB bulb and replace it every 6–12 months, even if it still “looks” fine.

Keep the water clean

Install a strong filter rated for twice the size of your tank. Change 25% of the water weekly, and remove leftover food right after feeding.

Don’t skip full tank cleanings

Once a month, deep clean the tank like you mean it. If you’re just topping up water and calling it a day, that fungus is laughing at you.

Avoid overcrowding

More turtles = more poop = more chance for fungus. Keep one turtle per properly sized tank unless you really know what you’re doing.

Feed a balanced diet

Poor nutrition = weak turtle = easy target. Mix pellets with greens, veggies, and occasional protein. Healthy turtles fight off infection better.

Do all this right, and fungus won’t even get a chance to start. You’ll save your turtle the stress—and yourself the hassle.

When to Call a Vet

Most mild fungal infections clear up at home. But if things start looking worse instead of better, it’s time to stop playing turtle doctor and call someone with a degree.

Call a vet if:

  • The fungus spreads or keeps coming back
  • Your turtle has open wounds, deep shell pits, or bleeding areas
  • You notice a bad smell coming from the shell or skin
  • The turtle stops eating, basking, or acting normal
  • There’s swelling, bubbling, or discharge near the nose or eyes (could be something worse)

A qualified reptile vet (herp vet) can prescribe stronger meds like antifungal creams or antibiotics if there’s an infection underneath.

Don’t wait too long. The earlier you get help, the less stressful (and expensive) it’ll be—for both you and your turtle.

About Author

Muntaseer Rahman started keeping pet turtles back in 2013. He also owns the largest Turtle & Tortoise Facebook community in Bangladesh. These days he is mostly active on Facebook.