Red Eared Slider Winter Care: Do They Need to Hibernate?
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No, red-eared sliders don’t technically hibernate – they brumate. It’s the reptile version of hibernation where they slow down but don’t fully sleep. Most pet sliders kept indoors at proper temperatures won’t brumate at all, and that’s totally fine.
Here’s the thing though – if temperatures drop below 50°F, your turtle’s body starts shutting down whether you planned for it or not. This can actually be dangerous if you’re not prepared.
In this guide, you’ll learn exactly what brumation is, whether your turtle needs it, how to keep them safe in winter, and when it becomes an emergency situation.
Quick Answer: Do Red-Eared Sliders Need to Hibernate?
- Pet sliders kept indoors at 75-80°F don’t need to brumate
- Brumation is beneficial for breeding and long-term health in adult turtles (3+ years old)
- Young turtles under 3-4 years shouldn’t brumate – it’s too risky
- Never force brumation if you’re a beginner – it can be deadly without proper preparation
- The “death zone” is 50-70°F – too cold to be active, too warm to brumate safely
What Is Brumation? (And Why It’s Not Hibernation)
Brumation is what reptiles do instead of hibernating.
During hibernation, mammals like bears go into deep sleep and can actually die if they wake up mid-winter. Brumation is different – your turtle slows way down but occasionally wakes up to breathe, drink water, or even grab a snack on warmer days.
Red-eared sliders are crazy good at this. Their metabolism drops by 80%, their heart rate slows to almost nothing, and they can survive for 4-5 months without oxygen when temperatures hit 37°F. That’s because they switch to anaerobic respiration – basically running their body without breathing by using stored calcium from their shell.
Pretty wild, right?
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Do Indoor Pet Sliders Need to Brumate?
Short answer: No.
If you keep your turtle’s tank at the proper temperature year-round (water at 75-80°F, basking spot at 85-95°F), your slider won’t brumate. Their body won’t get the temperature trigger that says “time to shut down for winter.”
This is completely fine for most pet turtles. You’re not hurting them by keeping conditions stable.
When Brumation IS Necessary
There are really only two situations where you’d want your slider to brumate:
If you’re breeding them. Brumation triggers hormones that make females ready to lay eggs. Most breeders do a “cooling period” from January to February where they drop temperatures to 50-60°F for about 8-12 weeks.
For long-term health benefits. Some research suggests that regular brumation helps turtles live longer and stay healthier. It seems to regulate their hormones and metabolism in ways we don’t fully understand yet.
But here’s the catch – these benefits only apply to healthy adult turtles over 3-4 years old.
The Danger Zone: What NOT to Do
This is where most beginners mess up.
The temperature range of 50-70°F is called the “death zone” for indoor turtles. At these temps, your turtle becomes lethargic and stops eating, but their body isn’t cold enough to enter true brumation.
What happens? They slowly starve, become dehydrated, and their immune system crashes. They get respiratory infections, shell rot, and other nasty problems.
I’ve seen this happen when people keep their turtle in an unheated room or garage during winter thinking “they’ll be fine.”
Never let your indoor turtle stay in temperatures between 50-70°F for extended periods.
How to Keep Your Indoor Slider Safe in Winter
If you don’t want your turtle to brumate (and most beginners shouldn’t), here’s what to do:
Maintain water temperature at 75-80°F. Use a quality submersible heater with a thermometer to monitor it. Don’t trust the heater’s built-in thermostat alone.
Keep basking temperature at 85-95°F. During winter, you might need to run your basking lamp 24/7. Use a red bulb at night so the light doesn’t mess up their sleep cycle.
Provide UVB lighting year-round. Your turtle needs this even more in winter since there’s less natural sunlight. Run lights for 10-12 hours daily.
Insulate the tank if your room gets cold. Wrap towels or blankets around the sides (not over the top – they need air circulation). You can also place foam board under the tank.
Monitor their behavior. If your turtle becomes sluggish, stops eating, or just floats motionless, check your temperatures immediately.
What Happens If Temperatures Drop Accidentally
Let’s say your heater breaks or the power goes out.
If your turtle’s water drops below 70°F, they’ll start becoming inactive. This is your cue to act fast.
Here’s what to do:
- Gradually warm them back up. Don’t blast them with heat – sudden temperature changes can cause shock. Increase temp by 2-3 degrees per hour until you hit 75-80°F.
- Offer food but don’t force it. They might not eat for a few days while adjusting.
- Watch for illness signs. Lethargy, mucus around the mouth or nose, wheezing, floating lopsided, or refusal to eat for more than a week are red flags.
Outdoor Sliders and Winter
If your turtle lives in an outdoor pond, the situation is different.
In areas where winter temperatures consistently stay between 35-60°F, your turtle will naturally brumate. This is fine IF your pond meets these requirements:
- At least 12 inches of water depth that won’t freeze solid
- Substrate like mud or sand on the bottom for the turtle to bury into
- No way for the water to drain or dry up
- Protection from predators (raccoons, foxes, dogs)
But honestly? Most experts recommend bringing outdoor turtles inside for winter, especially if you’re in an area with harsh winters or if your turtle is young.
The risks are real – freezing, predators, drowning if ice forms over the whole pond, or toxic buildup in the water.
If You Want to Brumate Your Turtle (Advanced Only)
Only attempt this if:
- Your turtle is over 3-4 years old
- They’re completely healthy with no recent illnesses
- You have guidance from a reptile vet
- You’re comfortable monitoring them closely
The basic process:
Stop feeding 2-3 weeks before cooling starts. Their digestive system needs to be completely empty or they can die from bacterial infections.
Gradually lower temperatures over 2-3 weeks until you reach 37-41°F. Use a mini-fridge or temperature-controlled space.
Place them in a ventilated container with slightly moist soil and leaf litter.
Check weekly – open the fridge, weigh them, let them soak in shallow lukewarm water for 2 hours.
They should only lose about 1% body weight per month. More than that means something’s wrong.
After 8-12 weeks, gradually warm them back up the same way you cooled them down.
This is not something to wing. Get help from someone experienced.
Signs Your Turtle Is in Trouble
Call a reptile vet immediately if you see:
- Mucus or bubbles around nose/mouth
- Wheezing or gasping sounds
- Eyes swollen shut
- Shell feels soft or has white patches
- Floating lopsided or unable to dive
- Losing more than 1% body weight per month during brumation
- Completely unresponsive and limp
- Not eating for more than 2-3 weeks (outside of planned brumation)
Don’t wait and hope it gets better. Turtles hide illness until it’s serious.
Common Mistakes People Make
- Thinking room temperature is warm enough. Unless your room stays 75-80°F constantly, you need a heater.
- Letting the turtle “decide” to brumate in an indoor tank. If temps drop accidentally, that’s not a choice – that’s a dangerous situation.
- Not having backup heating. Heaters fail. Have a spare or at least a plan for power outages.
- Assuming a healthy-looking turtle is fine in cold temps. It can take months for problems to show up.
- Trying brumation with a young or sick turtle. This is where things go really wrong.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can red-eared sliders survive freezing temperatures?
No, they can’t survive being frozen solid. In the wild, they brumate in water that stays liquid – usually buried in mud at the bottom of ponds where it’s cold but not frozen. If a turtle freezes, it dies.
My turtle stopped eating in winter – is this normal?
It depends on your water temperature. If temps are below 70°F, loss of appetite is expected. If temps are normal (75-80°F) and they still won’t eat, something else is wrong and you should see a vet.
How long can a red-eared slider go without eating?
Healthy adult sliders can go several months without food during proper brumation. But if your turtle isn’t brumating and stops eating for more than 2-3 weeks, that’s concerning. Young turtles need to eat more frequently.
Should I bring my outdoor turtle inside for winter?
If you’re a beginner, yes. Indoor winter care is much safer and easier to control. Experienced keepers with deep ponds (12+ inches) in moderate climates can attempt outdoor brumation, but there are serious risks involved.
What’s the ideal temperature for a red-eared slider in winter?
For indoor turtles you don’t want to brumate: Water should be 75-80°F, basking area 85-95°F. For turtles you’re intentionally brumating: 37-41°F in a controlled environment like a mini-fridge.
Bottom Line
Most pet red-eared sliders don’t need to hibernate or brumate. Keep their water at 75-80°F year-round and they’ll be perfectly happy and healthy.
Brumation is beneficial for breeding and possibly long-term health, but it’s risky – especially for young turtles or beginners. The process can go wrong in multiple ways, and it requires careful monitoring throughout.
If you’re new to turtle keeping, focus on maintaining consistent temperatures and good care year-round. That’s way more important than worrying about brumation.
Your turtle will live a long, healthy life without ever experiencing winter dormancy.
About Author
Muntaseer Rahman started keeping pet turtles back in 2013. He also owns the largest Turtle & Tortoise Facebook community in Bangladesh. These days he is mostly active on Facebook.
