My Turtle’s Eyes Won’t Open: What To Do?

One morning, I walked up to the tank and something felt off.

My turtle wasn’t moving much. And its eyes? Shut tight. Wouldn’t open no matter what I did.

I panicked. Was it blind? Sick? Just sleepy?

If you’re facing the same thing right now, take a breath. I’ve been there—and in this guide, I’ll show you exactly what I learned to help a turtle with swollen or closed eyes.

Quick Warning Signs to Watch For

If your turtle’s eyes won’t open, don’t brush it off. It’s often one of the first signs something’s wrong.

Here’s what I noticed early on:

• Eyes tightly shut, even when the turtle is awake or moving
• Swelling or puffiness around the eyelids
• Loss of appetite—they won’t touch even their favorite food
• Lethargy—your turtle just floats or hides and doesn’t bask
• Rubbing the face against objects, as if irritated or in pain

These are red flags. If you see one or more of these, it’s time to act. The faster you catch the issue, the easier it is to treat.

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Don’t Panic: Common Reasons This Happens

When I first saw my turtle keeping its eyes shut, my brain went into full panic mode. But after a little research (and a vet call), I realized there are a few common causes—and most of them are fixable.

Dirty Water

Turtles eat, poop, and swim in the same water. If that water isn’t filtered well or cleaned often, it turns into a bacteria soup.

This bacteria can irritate their eyes, causing them to swell shut. Even high ammonia levels can do the same.

No UVB Light

Turtles don’t just need heat—they need UVB light too. Without UVB, their body can’t absorb calcium well.

This weakens their immune system and leads to health problems, including eye swelling and poor healing.

Vitamin A Deficiency

This is super common, especially in turtles fed only pellets. Vitamin A helps keep their eyes, skin, and organs healthy.

Low Vitamin A = swollen eyelids, closed eyes, and poor vision. It’s called hypovitaminosis A.

Eye Injury

A rough tank mate, sharp decor, or even a bad fall can cause an eye injury. It may not bleed, but the eye can swell or shut as a reaction.

Check if one eye looks worse than the other—that’s often a sign of injury.

Bacterial or Fungal Infection

If the eye looks cloudy, has white gunk, or smells weird, it might be infected. This needs quick action.

These infections can spread fast, especially in warm and dirty water.

Most of the time, it’s one of these five. Sometimes it’s a mix. Good news is—almost all are treatable once you figure it out.

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How I Figured Out What Was Causing It

At first, I thought my turtle was just being lazy.

But when the eyes stayed shut for two days straight, I knew something was wrong.

The Water Looked Fine… Or So I Thought

I checked the tank and the water looked clear. But when I tested it, the ammonia level was high.

Turns out, I hadn’t cleaned the filter in weeks. And I was overfeeding—leftover food was rotting at the bottom.

The UVB Bulb Was Old

Then I remembered—I never replaced the UVB bulb.

It was over 8 months old. These bulbs lose strength over time, even if the light still turns on.

The Diet Was Too Basic

I had been feeding only pellets. No veggies. No variety. Not even once a week.

That’s when I learned about Vitamin A deficiency and how it messes up their eyes.

It wasn’t one single problem. It was a mix of bad water, no UVB, and poor diet.

Once I fixed these, the recovery slowly began.

First Aid: What You Can Do Right Now

If your turtle’s eyes are shut, don’t wait. Here are a few things you can do right now to help.

Move to Clean, Shallow Water

Take your turtle out of the main tank and place it in a small tub with clean, warm (not hot) dechlorinated water.

Make sure the water is shallow—just enough to cover its legs. This keeps the turtle calm and hydrated.

Offer Soft, Vitamin-Rich Food

Try offering boiled carrot puree or soft squash. These are rich in Vitamin A and easy to eat, even if the eyes are shut.

Use tongs or a small spoon to place the food near its mouth. It may take a few tries.

Gently Rinse the Eyes

If there’s no sign of injury, you can gently wipe the eyelids with a clean cotton pad dipped in turtle-safe saline or plain boiled-and-cooled water.

Don’t use human eye drops unless a vet tells you it’s okay.

Keep the Turtle Warm and Dry for Short Periods

Give your turtle a clean, warm, dry spot to rest for a while. Use a soft towel and place it under a gentle heat source (like a basking lamp).

This helps it warm up and reduces stress, which supports healing.

These steps aren’t a full cure—but they buy you time while you fix the real problem in the tank.

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Fix the Tank Setup (This Matters a Lot)

Once I did the first aid, I knew I had to fix the tank—or the problem would just come back.

Clean the Water

I did a full water change and cleaned out the filter.

Now I check the ammonia and nitrate levels every week using a cheap test kit. Makes a big difference.

If your water smells or looks cloudy, don’t wait. Clean it.

Upgrade the UVB Bulb

My old UVB bulb was still lighting up, but it was useless.

I replaced it with a proper 5.0 or 10.0 UVB bulb (depends on turtle type). I also made sure there was no glass or plastic blocking it.

UVB needs to hit them directly to work.

Add a Proper Basking Spot

My turtle’s dock was slippery and too far from the light. I swapped it for a better floating dock.

Now there’s a strong basking bulb right above it, hitting 90–95°F. Turtles need this spot to dry off and stay healthy.

Remove Sharp or Rough Decor

I had a few fake plants and rocks with sharp edges. Those went straight to the trash.

Soft driftwood, smooth rocks, or live plants are better and safer.

Fixing the tank setup didn’t just help with the eye issue. My turtle got more active, started basking again, and looked way happier.

Vitamin A: The Unsung Hero

I didn’t even know turtles needed Vitamin A until mine stopped opening its eyes.

But it turns out—it’s crucial.

What Happens Without It

Without enough Vitamin A, turtles can’t keep their eyes, skin, or organs healthy.
One of the first signs? Puffy, swollen eyelids that stay shut.

They might stop eating too, because they can’t see or smell food properly.

Best Natural Sources

I started adding small bits of these to the diet:

• Boiled carrots
• Dandelion greens
• Squash
• Sweet potato
• Dark leafy greens (like collard or turnip greens)

A little goes a long way. You can mash or puree it if your turtle isn’t eating much.

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What About Supplements?

Some turtle vitamin drops do contain Vitamin A, but don’t go overboard.

Too much can also be harmful. If you’re not sure, talk to a reptile vet before adding drops to food or water.

When to Call a Vet

I tried home care first, but I also kept a close eye on things.

Sometimes, no matter what you do, the turtle needs professional help.

Call a Vet If:

• The eyes stay shut for more than 2–3 days
• You see white gunk, crust, or pus around the eyes
• One or both eyes look cloudy or sunken
• The turtle is barely moving or refuses all food
• It can’t swim properly or keeps tilting in the water

Infections can spread fast. Eye damage can get worse.

A reptile vet can check for deeper problems, give proper meds, or flush out the eye safely.

What I Did That Actually Helped

I won’t lie—I felt helpless at first. But here’s what I did that actually made a difference.

Daily Warm Soaks

I gave my turtle a shallow warm soak every morning. Just clean, dechlorinated water. This kept the eyes moist and helped loosen up any crust or swelling.

Carrot Puree Trick

I boiled carrots, mashed them, and offered a tiny spoonful near the mouth. Sometimes I even mixed it with pellet dust. He started nibbling by day 2.

Full Tank Cleanup

I scrubbed the tank, replaced half the water, cleaned the filter, and tested everything. Turned out ammonia was too high. Once I fixed that, he got more active.

Replaced the UVB Bulb

I swapped out my old UVB light for a new one. That alone seemed to boost his behavior and basking right away.

Eyes Started Opening on Day 3

By the third day, one eye opened halfway. Then both by day 5. He started eating again and looked way more alert.

I didn’t use any meds—just clean water, better lighting, proper food, and patience. That’s what worked for me.

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Final Tip: Prevention Beats Cure Every Time

Once my turtle got better, I made a promise—I’d never let it get that bad again.

And honestly, it’s easier to prevent eye problems than fix them.

Here’s What I Stick To Now:

• Clean the water weekly and test it often
• Feed a mix of pellets, veggies, and Vitamin A-rich foods
• Replace UVB bulbs every 6 months, even if they still light up
• Watch for changes—swollen eyes, no basking, hiding too much

Just paying attention for a few minutes a day can save you a big headache later.

Your turtle won’t tell you when something’s wrong—but the signs are there if you look.

FAQs (Quick Answers for Worried Turtle Parents)

Can I use human eye drops on my turtle?

Nope. Most human drops are not safe for reptiles. Only use vet-approved turtle eye drops if needed.

Do I need a heat lamp and a UVB light?

Yes, both. UVB helps with vitamins and calcium. Heat helps them digest and stay active. One can’t replace the other.

Can dirty water alone cause eye problems?

Absolutely. Even if it looks clean, high ammonia or waste can hurt their eyes fast.

My turtle’s eating but still has closed eyes. Why?

It could be a mild deficiency or lighting issue. Some turtles eat by smell, so they might still eat even with eye trouble.

Is it okay to feed only pellets?

No. Pellets are good, but not enough. Mix in veggies, greens, and occasional treats for full nutrition.