How To Take Care Of Yellow Bellied Slider? [Diet, Diseases, Care Sheet]

So you’re thinking about getting one of those yellow-bellied turtles, huh?

Well, buckle up because these little water wizards are about to become your new obsession. I’ve been keeping these sliders for years, and let me tell you – they’re like having a tiny dinosaur that actually likes you back.

Yellow-Bellied Slider Care at a Glance

• Tank: 100–120 gal female, 75–100 gal male
• Water: 75–80°F adults, 78–80°F juveniles
• Basking: 90–95°F surface, 80–86°F air
• UVB: T5 HO tube, 8–18 in distance based on mesh
• Diet: Adults 70–80% greens, rest pellets + occasional protein
• Feeding: Juveniles daily, adults every other day
• Filter: Canister, 2–3× turnover per hour
• Water change: 25–50% weekly
• Substrate: Bare bottom or sand. No gravel.
• Enrichment: Sturdy dock, driftwood, safe plants, hides

For a printable version of this amazing care sheet, click here.

What Exactly Is a Yellow Bellied Slider?

Picture this: a turtle with the personality of a golden retriever and the looks of a tiny prehistoric beast.

Yellow-bellied sliders (Trachemys scripta scripta) are 8-11″ long, semi-aquatic, diurnal reptiles found throughout the southern United States. They have a smooth, flattened shell with dark green and yellow striped skin, plus a broad yellow band behind each eye. The plastron is yellow with two black markings at the front.

The weirdest part? They can live for 100 years and up when properly cared for, though in captivity they average around 25-40 years.

That’s longer than most people keep their cars!

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Tank Setup: Their Underwater Palace

Size Requirements (This Is Where Most People Mess Up)

Here’s the thing nobody tells you: Aim for 100–120 gallons for an adult female and 75–100 gallons for an adult male.

Go 4–6 ft long, 18–24 in wide, and enough height to hold 12–18 in of water.

I know, I know. That’s bigger than most bathtubs.

But trust me, cramming a slider into a tiny tank is like asking someone to live in a closet. For this reason we suggest a tank with at least 1200mm (4 feet) in width.

The tank should also be tall enough to provide areas for swimming – minimum height of around 300mm (12 inches).

The Basking Area: Their Private Beach

Every slider needs their own personal tanning spot.

Due to the lack of dry area, yellow sliders will spend more time in the water, leading to respiratory illness. The damp shell and skin create a more welcoming environment for bacteria and fungus.

Wrong! Don’t skip this part.

Your turtle needs a sturdy platform where they can climb out completely. A dry shell after each bask matters. Wet docks invite shell problems.

I’ve used everything from fancy commercial docks to a simple piece of driftwood. Just make sure the edges aren’t sharp enough to hurt your shelled friend.

Temperature: Getting the Heat Just Right

Water Temperature

Water temperature: Adults 75–80°F. Juveniles 78–80°F.

Cold water makes sliders sluggish and prone to illness. It’s like trying to function without your morning coffee – technically possible, but why would you want to?

Basking Temperature

Basking surface 90–95°F. Air near basking 80–86°F.

Use a digital thermometer to check this – those cheap stick-on ones are about as accurate as a weatherman.

Lighting: The Sun Substitute

UVB Is Non-Negotiable

Yellow-bellied sliders require UVB light to synthesize vitamin D. Without vitamin D, they cannot metabolize calcium properly, causing problems with bone growth.

I learned this the hard way with my first turtle.

The UVB bulb: Use a T5 HO UVB tube that spans 50–100% of the tank length. Mount 12–18 in above the basking spot with no mesh, or 8–12 in if there’s mesh. Replace the tube every 12 months.

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Heat Lamps

Use a heat lamp over the dock. Skip colored bulbs. Ceramic emitters are for heat without light at night, but sliders don’t need night heat in a warm home. A small night drop is fine. Keep all lights off at night.

Diet: What These Little Garbage Disposals Actually Eat

The Age Factor Changes Everything

Plot twist: baby sliders are basically tiny carnivores.

Baby slider turtles are carnivores that usually feed on insects, worms, and small fish. You should provide them with live food or meat products about four times a week.

But adult sliders? Adults eat mostly plants, about 70–80% greens and aquatic plants, with the rest pellets and occasional protein.

What To Feed Your Slider

The Good Stuff (Safe Foods)

Food Type	Examples	Notes
Leafy Greens	Collard greens, dandelion greens, kale, romaine lettuce, endive	Daily staples
Vegetables	Raw grated squash, carrots, green beans, raw grated sweet potato	Rich in vitamin A
Aquatic Plants	Duckweed, water hyacinth, water lettuce	Natural and nutritious
Protein (Juveniles)	Crickets, earthworms, freeze-dried shrimp, small fish	Mostly for young turtles
Fruits (Treats Only)	Strawberries and melons can be given as treats but should not be the primary food source	Once weekly max

The Banned List (Foods to Avoid)

Foods high in oxalates, such as spinach, rhubarb, and beet greens, should be avoided or given very rarely, as oxalates can interfere with calcium absorption. Avocado is toxic to many reptiles and should never be offered to turtles.

Also avoid:

• Iceberg lettuce (nutritionally useless)
• High-fat meats
• Processed human foods
• Dairy products

Feeding Schedule

Juveniles: Juveniles: once daily.

Adults: Adults: every other day. Protein portion ≈ head size. Veg pile ≈ shell size.

Water Quality: Keeping Their Pool Clean

Filtration Is Your Best Friend

Do 25–50% water changes weekly. Use a canister filter that turns the full volume 2–3× per hour. Rinse media monthly in tank water.

Think of it this way: sliders eat, swim, and poop in the same water. A good filter is the difference between a healthy turtle and a vet bill.

Water Changes

Weekly water changes keep things fresh and your turtle healthy.

I use a siphon to make this easier – saves your back and keeps the water fresh.

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Common Diseases: When Things Go Wrong

Shell Rot (The Big Scary One)

Shell rot is a fungal and/or bacterial infection that occurs on the turtle’s carapace or plastron. Because it’s caused by poor husbandry, shell rot is an unfortunately common problem.

Signs to watch for:

• Soft spots on the shell
• Bad smell
• Discolored patches

During the primary stages, shell rot is curable. Healing creams and antibiotics can recover the yellow slider within weeks. Prevention: Clean water, proper basking, and good nutrition prevent most cases.

Respiratory Infections

Yellow-bellied sliders are susceptible to respiratory infections which can cause wheezing, drooling, or puffiness in the eyes and is commonly caused by bacteria.

Watch for:

• Excess mucus in their mouths (seen as bubbles), nasal discharge, lethargy, loss of appetite, wheezing, extension of the neck to breathe
• Swimming tilted to one side

Prevention: Proper water temperatures, clean environment, and adequate UVB lighting.

Vitamin A Deficiency

Vitamin A deficiency occurs when turtles are fed an inappropriate diet. Turtles that are fed iceberg lettuce, an all-meat diet, or a poor-quality commercial diet are most likely to develop hypovitaminosis A.

Symptoms include:

• Lack of appetite, lethargy, swelling of the eyelids (often with pus-like discharge), swelling of the ear, kidney failure

Prevention: Feed variety of vitamin A-rich foods like dark leafy greens and orange vegetables.

Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD)

Metabolic bone disease is an imbalance of calcium and phosphorus due to improper diet, lack of adequate UV light, or both. Signs include a misshapen shell or deformed bones in legs.

This is why proper UVB lighting isn’t optional – it’s life or death.

Prevention: Proper UVB lighting, calcium-rich diet, and balanced nutrition.

Setting Up Your Slider’s Dream Home

Step-by-Step Setup Guide

1. Get a massive tank (110+ gallons for adults)
2. Install powerful filtration – oversize rather than undersize
3. Add a water heater – about 3–5 watts per gallon total across heaters
4. Create a basking area with proper temperatures
5. Set up UVB and heat lighting on a 12-hour cycle
6. Add hiding spots and enrichment
7. Test everything before adding your turtle

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Pro Tips From Someone Who’s Made Every Mistake

• Start with the adult-sized setup – don’t upgrade later
• A constant temperature of 25°C (77°F) should be maintained day and night
• Use water conditioner to remove chlorine
• Never use gravel substrate – it’s an impaction risk

The Real Talk: Are Yellow Bellied Sliders Right for You?

The Good News

Yellow-bellied sliders can make good pets for the right owner. They have interesting behaviors and can live for a long time, potentially becoming a rewarding lifelong companion.

They’re also surprisingly interactive – mine recognizes me and swims over when I approach the tank.

The Reality Check

Long lifespan means you are making a long-term commitment. Size requirements mean they need spacious aquatic habitat. Care requirements include proper lighting, heating, filtration, clean water, and balanced diet.

Plus the financial commitment: initial setup costs, ongoing food, electricity, vet bills, and equipment replacement.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do sliders need a land area?

Yes, a dry dock large enough for a full body dry-out.

Can they live without a heater?

Not in most homes. Cold water triggers illness.

Best UVB bulb?

T5 HO tube. Avoid coils for large tanks.

Ready to take the plunge? Your yellow bellied slider is waiting to meet you. Just make sure you’ve got that 100+ gallon tank ready first.