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After years of keeping tortoises and helping thousands of tortoise owners through The Turtle Hub, I’ve refined this list to include only the products that actually work. This isn’t just another generic shopping list—these are the exact items I use and recommend based on real-world experience with multiple tortoise species.
Enclosures & Habitats
Tortoises need floor space—lots of it. Unlike turtles, they can’t swim vertically, so all that matters is length and width. The bigger the better.
My Top Pick:
Aivituvin Wooden Tortoise House (39.4″ x 22.5″)
If you want something ready-made that’s better than a plastic tub but more affordable than a custom build, this is a solid choice.
Why I recommend it:
- 100% solid wood construction (not cheap plywood that rots)
- Waterproof sealed plastic bottom protects your floors
- Built-in sleeping area + viewing area with acrylic windows
- Adjustable legs for leveling on any surface
- Detachable metal lamp holder with 360° rotation
- Works both indoors and outdoors
- Easy assembly (45 minutes with 2 people)
Key features:
- Dimensions: 39.4″L x 22.5″W x 31.5″H
- Two viewing sides with acrylic panels
- Separate “private” sleeping shelter
- Lamp holder adjusts for proper UVB/heat positioning
- Easy to clean sealed bottom
Best for: Small to medium tortoise species (Russian, Greek, Hermann’s, small Redfoots). Works well for juveniles of larger species. Also suitable for bearded dragons and other small reptiles.
Size limitations: This is a good starter enclosure but still on the smaller side. A 39″ x 22″ footprint works for tortoises under 6-8 inches. Larger species or adults will eventually need bigger.
Pro tip: Get the version with legs—being elevated makes viewing easier and protects from floor drafts. The adjustable legs are worth the extra money.
Substrate
Riare Compressed Coconut Fiber Bricks (2 Pack)
If mixing your own substrate sounds like too much work, these compressed coco coir bricks are the easiest solution.
Why I recommend these:
- Each brick expands to cover significant area when hydrated
- Natural, odorless material with no chemicals
- Excellent humidity retention for tropical species
- Absorbs waste and odors naturally
- Encourages natural digging behavior
- Biodegradable and compostable (can use as garden fertilizer after)
Key features:
- 2 bricks per pack (each 7.8″ x 3.9″ x 1.97″ compressed)
- Made from 100% natural coconut husk fiber
- Expands 7-8x when soaked in water
- Soft, fluffy texture when prepared
- Safe if accidentally ingested
How to prepare:
- Place brick in large container or bucket
- Add warm water and let soak 15-30 minutes
- Brick expands into fluffy, ready-to-use substrate
- Fluff with hands and spread in enclosure
- Mix with organic topsoil (70/30 ratio) for best results
Best for: Mediterranean and tropical tortoise species (Hermann’s, Greek, Russian, Redfoot). Mix with topsoil for perfect substrate blend. Also works great for other reptiles, amphibians, and hermit crabs.
Coverage: One brick covers approximately 1-2 square feet at 3-4 inch depth when expanded. Two bricks are enough for a standard 4ft x 2ft tortoise table when mixed with topsoil.
Pro tip: Buy several packs at once—they store indefinitely when kept dry and compressed. Much easier than hauling heavy bags of topsoil, especially if you don’t have a car or storage space.
Heating Equipment
Tortoises are cold-blooded and need external heat sources to regulate body temperature. Most species need a basking spot of 90-100°F and an ambient temperature of 75-85°F.
Basking Lamp:
Zoo Med Repti Basking Spot Lamp
This creates the focused hot spot your tortoise needs.
Why basking bulbs:
- Creates concentrated heat for basking
- Bright light encourages natural behavior
- Available in multiple wattages
- Long-lasting and reliable
Wattage guide:
- 75W: Small enclosures or warm rooms
- 100W: Standard 4ft x 2ft tortoise tables
- 150W: Large enclosures or cool rooms
Positioning: Mount 12-18 inches above basking area. Use a thermometer to verify surface temperature reaches 90-95°F for most species (100°F+ for desert species like Sulcatas).
Required Fixture:
Deep Dome Lamp Fixture with Ceramic Socket
Use a quality fixture that can handle high-wattage bulbs.
Why deep dome:
- Focuses heat better than standard domes
- Ceramic socket won’t melt
- Can handle 150W+ bulbs safely
- Better heat distribution
For Nighttime/Ambient Heat:
If your room drops below 65°F at night, you need supplemental heat that doesn’t produce light.
Why ceramic heat emitters:
- Heat without light (tortoises need darkness at night)
- Safe to run 24/7
- Long-lasting (2+ years)
- Perfect for maintaining ambient temperature
When to use: Nighttime temps below 65°F, or to maintain warm side of enclosure during cooler months.
Thermostat Controller for Heat Sources
BN-LINK Digital Heat Mat Thermostat
This is non-negotiable for safety and temperature regulation.
Why you need a thermostat:
- Prevents overheating (can be fatal)
- Maintains consistent temperatures
- Saves electricity
- Extends bulb life
- Peace of mind when you’re away
How to use: Plug heat source into thermostat, place probe at basking spot, set to desired temperature (90-95°F). The thermostat will cycle power on/off automatically.
UVB Lighting
UVB is absolutely critical for tortoises to metabolize calcium and produce vitamin D3. Without it, they develop metabolic bone disease, soft shell, and pyramiding.
My Top Pick:
Zoo Med ReptiSun 10.0 T5 HO + Fixture
This is the industry standard and what I use for all my tortoises.
Why ReptiSun 10.0:
- Provides strong UVB output (10% UVB)
- T5 HO (High Output) version is brighter and more effective
- Well-researched and trusted by vets
- Available in multiple lengths to fit your enclosure
Budget Option:
ReptiSun 10.0 Compact Fluorescent (CFL)
These work but aren’t as effective as tube bulbs.
Why compact bulbs are inferior:
- Smaller coverage area
- Less consistent UVB output
- Shorter lifespan
- Reports of eye issues with early versions (newer versions are safer)
When to use: Very small enclosures, tight budgets, or supplemental lighting only.
Advanced Option:
Mercury Vapor Bulb (MVB) – Zoo Med PowerSun 100W
Provides both heat and UVB in one bulb.
When to use:
- Large outdoor enclosures
- Very tall indoor setups where bulb can be 18-24 inches away
- To simplify your lighting setup
Not ideal for: Standard tortoise tables (can’t mount high enough safely).
What NOT to do:
- Rely on window sunlight (glass blocks UVB)
- Use coil/compact UVB as sole source for large tortoises
- Skip UVB entirely (even with outdoor time, you need backup)
Hides & Shelters
Tortoises need secure hiding spots to feel safe and regulate temperature.
Best Hide Option:
Natural materials work best and look great.
Why half logs:
- Natural appearance
- Provides security
- Good for maintaining humidity underneath
- Chew-safe material
Size: Should be just big enough for your tortoise to turn around inside.
Alternative:
Zoo Med Habba Hut or Exo Terra Reptile Cave
Commercially made hides work well too.
Features to look for:
- Smooth interior (no sharp edges)
- Heavy enough not to tip over
- Easy to clean
- Appropriate size for your tortoise
Food & Water Dishes
Tortoises are messy eaters and clumsy walkers. Your dishes need to accommodate this.
Food & Water Dish:
Temperature & Humidity Monitoring
You can’t maintain proper conditions without measuring them. Guessing kills tortoises.
Paizoo Digital Thermometer & Hygrometer Combo:
You need to monitor both temperature and humidity.
Why digital combo units:
- Track both temp and humidity in one device
- Remote probe can be placed at basking spot
- More accurate than analog gauges
- Records high/low readings
How many you need: At minimum, two units—one at basking spot, one at cool end.
Target ranges (vary by species):
Mediterranean species (Greek, Hermann’s, Russian):
- Basking: 90-95°F
- Cool end: 70-75°F
- Humidity: 40-60%
Tropical species (Redfoot, Yellowfoot):
- Basking: 90-95°F
- Cool end: 75-80°F
- Humidity: 60-80%
Desert species (Sulcata, Leopard):
- Basking: 95-105°F
- Cool end: 75-80°F
- Humidity: 30-50%
Food & Supplements
Tortoises are primarily herbivorous, but diet varies significantly by species.
For Mediterranean Species (Greek, Hermann’s, Russian) – Diet: Weeds, Grasses, Leafy Greens
These tortoises need a high-fiber, low-protein diet.
Best foods:
- Dandelion greens and flowers (whole plant)
- Plantain weed
- Clover
- Grape leaves
- Mulberry leaves
- Spring mix (occasionally)
- Opuntia cactus pads (remove spines)
Commercial backup:
Zoo Med Grassland Tortoise Food
When fresh weeds aren’t available, this pellet food works as a supplement (not main diet).
Why these pellets:
- High fiber, low protein
- Formulated for grazing species
- Contains wildflower and grass hay
- Good for variety
How to use: Soak pellets, offer 2-3 times per week as supplement, not replacement for fresh food.
For Tropical Species (Redfoot, Yellowfoot) – Diet: More Varied, Some Protein
These species need more variety including some fruit and protein.
Best foods:
- Leafy greens (collards, turnip greens, dandelion)
- Squash and sweet potato
- Hibiscus flowers and leaves
- Opuntia cactus
- Occasional fruits (10% of diet): mango, papaya, strawberries
- Occasional protein (5% of diet): earthworms, snails, moistened dog food
Commercial option:
Higher protein than grassland formula, appropriate for rainforest species.
For Desert Species (Sulcata, Leopard) – Diet: Grasses and Hay
These tortoises need the highest fiber diet of all.
Best foods:
- Grass hay (timothy, orchard grass, bermuda)
- Fresh grasses (let them graze!)
- Opuntia cactus pads
- Occasional leafy greens (not main diet)
Critical: Sulcatas should eat mostly grass and hay. Too much protein or vegetables causes rapid growth and pyramiding.
Essential Calcium Supplement:
Rep-Cal Calcium with Vitamin D3
ALL tortoises need calcium supplementation.
How to use:
- Dust food 3-4 times per week for growing tortoises
- 2-3 times per week for adults
- More if UVB exposure is limited
Why you need D3 version: Even with perfect UVB, supplementation provides safety margin for growing tortoises.
Multivitamin:
Provides essential vitamins and minerals.
How to use:
- Dust food once per week
- Alternate days with calcium (don’t give both on same day)
- Use sparingly (vitamins can build up to toxic levels)
Cuttlebone: Natural Calcium Source
Place a cuttlebone in the enclosure for tortoises to gnaw on.
Why cuttlebone:
- Self-regulating calcium source
- Good for beak maintenance
- Natural and safe
- Inexpensive
Foods to AVOID:
- Spinach, kale, chard (bind calcium)
- Iceberg lettuce (no nutrition)
- Brassicas in large amounts (cabbage, broccoli)
- Tomatoes (too acidic)
- Avocado (toxic)
- Rhubarb (toxic)
- High-protein foods for herbivorous species
- Dog/cat food as regular diet (even for Redfoots)
Essential Accessories
Light Timer: BN-LINK Digital Timer
Tortoises need consistent day/night cycles.
Why you need timers:
- Automates lighting schedule (12-14 hours light in summer, 10-12 in winter)
- Ensures consistency even when you’re away
- Mimics natural photoperiod changes
Get two: One for UVB/basking, one for ambient heat (if running CHE at night).
Spray Bottle or Mister: For Humidity Control
Essential for species that need higher humidity.
How to use:
- Mist substrate morning and evening for tropical species
- Mist one end of enclosure to create humidity gradient
- Never mist the tortoise directly (can cause shell rot)
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Using glass aquariums: Poor ventilation causes respiratory infections. Tortoises get stressed walking into glass walls. Use open-top tortoise tables instead.
- Wrong substrate: Pine/cedar shavings are toxic. Small gravel causes impaction. Reptile carpet harbors bacteria. Use topsoil/coco coir mix.
- No UVB or weak UVB: Compact bulbs don’t provide enough coverage. Bulbs past 12 months don’t work even if they still light up. Replace on schedule.
- Improper diet: Feeding dog food to herbivorous tortoises. Giving fruit to Mediterranean species. Not enough fiber for Sulcatas. Research your specific species.
- No temperature gradient: Tortoises need to thermoregulate. Must have warm basking spot (90-95°F+) and cooler area (70-80°F).
- Keeping them too humid or too dry: Mediterranean species get shell rot in high humidity. Tropical species get dehydrated in low humidity. Match humidity to species needs.
- Skipping soaks for hatchlings: Baby tortoises need daily soaks (10-15 minutes in shallow warm water) for hydration.
- Handling too much: Tortoises are not cuddly pets. Excessive handling causes stress. Let them walk around, don’t constantly pick them up.
- Mixed species: Different species have different care requirements. Never house different species together.
- Growing too fast: Overfeeding and too much protein causes pyramiding (permanent shell deformity). Slow, steady growth is healthy growth.
- No hide provided: Tortoises need secure spots to retreat. Lack of hiding spots causes constant stress.
Shopping List by Priority
IMMEDIATE ESSENTIALS (Can’t keep tortoise without these):
- Appropriate enclosure (4ft x 2ft minimum for most species)
- Substrate (topsoil/coco coir mix)
- UVB bulb + T5 fixture (ReptiSun 10.0)
- Basking lamp + bulb (100W)
- Deep dome fixture
- Thermostat controller
- Two thermometer/hygrometer combos
- Water dish (shallow, sturdy)
- Food dish or slate tile
- Hide (half log or cave)
- Appropriate food for your species
- Calcium supplement with D3
- Light timer
WEEK 1 ADDITIONS:
- Infrared temperature gun
- Multivitamin supplement
- Feeding tongs
- Kitchen scale for weighing
- Spray bottle (for humidity)
- Cuttlebone
NICE TO HAVE:
- Ceramic heat emitter (for nighttime warmth)
- UV meter (Solarmeter 6.5)
- Backup bulbs (UVB and basking)
- Outdoor enclosure setup
- Hospital/quarantine setup
FOR OUTDOOR SETUPS:
- Predator-proof fencing
- Insulated heated house
- Shade structure
- Safe plants for grazing
- Secure nighttime shelter
My Maintenance Schedule
Daily:
- Check temperatures (basking and ambient)
- Check humidity levels
- Fresh food and water
- Remove uneaten food after 2-3 hours
- Observe behavior and appearance
- Soak hatchlings (10-15 minutes in shallow warm water)
Weekly:
- Spot-clean substrate (remove waste)
- Dust food with calcium supplement (3-4x per week)
- Dust with multivitamin (1x per week)
- Weigh juvenile tortoises (monthly for adults)
- Check UVB and heat bulb function
Monthly:
- Deep clean enclosure
- Replace substrate (or top up with fresh)
- Inspect shell and skin for issues
- Check all equipment for wear
- Record weight and measurements
Every 6 Months:
- Deep clean water and food dishes thoroughly
- Inspect heating equipment for safety
- Clean light fixtures (dust reduces output)
Annually:
- Replace UVB bulb (mark replacement date on calendar!)
- Veterinary checkup (find reptile vet before emergency)
- Replace worn equipment
Money-Saving Tips
- Build your own tortoise table – DIY with plywood costs $50-100 vs $200-300 commercial
- Buy substrate in bulk – 50lb bag of topsoil is $3-5 vs small reptile substrate bags at $15-20
- Grow your own greens – Dandelions, plantain, and clover grow free in lawns
- Mark bulb replacement dates – Don’t waste money running ineffective old UVB bulbs
- Use terracotta plant saucers – $3-5 vs $20 reptile-specific dishes (same thing)
- Shop hardware stores not pet stores – Timers, thermostats, fixtures much cheaper
- Invest in quality upfront – Good thermostat prevents fires, good UVB prevents vet bills
- Plan outdoor space – Natural sunlight is free and best for tortoises long-term
Initial Setup Cost: $300-500 for quality indoor setup
Monthly Ongoing: $20-40 (food, electricity, occasional supplies)
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does a complete tortoise setup cost?
- Budget setup: $200-350 (will work but minimal)
- Quality setup: $400-600 (proper equipment that lasts)
- Premium setup: $800+ (includes outdoor pen, backup equipment)
Can I keep my tortoise in a glass aquarium?
No. Glass tanks have poor ventilation leading to respiratory infections, and tortoises stress out trying to walk through glass walls. Use open-top tortoise tables or outdoor pens.
Do I really need UVB if my tortoise gets outdoor time?
UVB is still essential as backup. Weather, seasons, and safety concerns mean outdoor time isn’t always possible. Plus, window glass blocks UVB even if they’re near a window.
How often should I replace the UVB bulb?
Every 12 months, even if the bulb still produces light. UVB output degrades over time. Mark your calendar when you install a new bulb.
What’s the best beginner tortoise species?
Russian tortoises stay small (6-8 inches), tolerate cooler temps, and are hardy. Hermann’s tortoises are also excellent. Avoid Sulcatas for beginners (get 100+ lbs and need huge outdoor space).
Can tortoises live with other reptiles?
No. Different species have different requirements and can transmit diseases. Never house different species together. Even same species should have plenty of space to avoid stress.
My tortoise isn’t eating. What’s wrong?
Check: Is basking area warm enough (90-95°F)? Is UVB working? Is humidity appropriate? Are temps correct? Is tortoise new (can take week to settle)? If continues beyond 5-7 days, see a reptile vet.
How often should I soak my tortoise?
- Hatchlings: Daily 10-15 minute soaks in shallow warm water
- Juveniles: 3-4 times per week
- Adults: 2-3 times per week, or provide a shallow water dish they can soak in
Can I feed my tortoise fruits and vegetables?
Depends on species. Mediterranean tortoises (Greek, Hermann’s, Russian) should rarely get fruit – mostly weeds and grasses. Redfoots can have fruit 2-3 times per week. Sulcatas should avoid fruit entirely.
What temperature should my tortoise enclosure be?
- Basking spot: 90-100°F depending on species
- Cool end: 70-80°F depending on species
- Night: Can drop to 65-70°F for most species (use CHE if cooler)
Always provide a temperature gradient so tortoises can thermoregulate.
Final Thoughts
I’ve spent years keeping multiple tortoise species and helping thousands of tortoise owners avoid common mistakes. These recommendations aren’t sponsored—they’re based on what actually works in real-world setups over years of use.
Tortoises can live 50-100+ years with proper care. The upfront investment in quality equipment pays off in healthier tortoises, lower vet bills, and decades of companionship. Do it right from the start.
